Oyster-Stuffed Lamb Shoulder

Oyster-stuffed mutton was recorded as Charles Dickens’s favourite dish in his wife Catherine’s 1851 dinner-planning book. This recipe uses lamb shoulder as a modern substitute for mutton, stuffed with bread, oysters, marjoram, and beef dripping, then roasted until tender. The combination of rich lamb and briny oysters is classic Victorian comfort food.

Ingredients

For the Stuffing

• 14 fresh oysters
• 2 cups stale bread, torn into chunks
• 3 egg yolks
• 8 tbsp beef dripping (or butter)
• 2 tbsp fresh marjoram, chopped
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 3 tbsp breadcrumbs
• Salt and black pepper to taste

For the Roast

• 1.5 kg boneless lamb shoulder
• Salt and black pepper

For Serving (Optional)

• Roasted root vegetables (carrots, parsnips, turnips)
• Roast potatoes
• Turnip and horseradish mash
• Meat gravy
• Mint sauce

Instructions

Prepare the Oysters

1. Shuck the oysters by inserting a shucking knife at the hinge and applying steady downward pressure until the shell opens.
2. Remove the oyster meat and roughly chop it. Reserve any oyster liquor for the stuffing.

Make the Stuffing

3. In a large bowl, combine the torn bread, egg yolks, beef dripping, marjoram, chopped oysters, lemon zest, breadcrumbs, salt, and pepper.
4. Mix thoroughly until well combined. If the mixture seems too dry, add a splash of oyster liquor or stock. The stuffing should hold together without being wet.

Stuff and Roll the Lamb

5. Lay the boneless lamb shoulder flat on a work surface.
6. Season the inside generously with salt and pepper.
7. Spread the oyster stuffing evenly over the meat, leaving a 2 cm border around the edges.
8. Roll the lamb tightly around the stuffing and secure with butcher’s twine, tying knots at regular intervals.

Roast the Lamb

9. Preheat the oven to 220C (430F).
10. Insert a probe thermometer into the centre of the roast if available.
11. Roast for 30 minutes at 220C to brown the exterior.
12. Reduce the oven temperature to 160C (320F) and continue roasting until the internal temperature reaches 60-65C (140-150F) for medium, approximately 40-50 minutes more depending on the size.
13. Remove from the oven and rest under foil for 15 minutes before carving.

Serve

14. Slice the rolled lamb to reveal the oyster stuffing spiral.
15. Serve with roasted vegetables, roast potatoes, turnip and horseradish mash, meat gravy, and mint sauce.

Notes

• If you can source mutton, use a leg of mutton as Dickens would have enjoyed. The cooking time will be longer.
• The dish tastes even better the next day when turned into a stew with the leftover meat and vegetables.
• Oysters were cheap and widely available in Victorian London, making this a common pairing rather than a luxury dish.